Where ever you wander in this life, whether you create a most-detailed, to-the-minute itinerary or you simply show-up and roll with the punches, a little preliminary food-research will always serve you well. (I mean, why would you ever eat at Mickey-Dees and contemporaries, when there are entirely new palates and flavours to be discovered?)
And Montreal is no exception. Crepes and poutine are a must. (although, I would caution against in one sitting.) We didn't find anywhere that served the exceptionalle, so ask around, eat around (and then let me know where to procure the best of the best). Bagels, we missed out on, but worth a sampling, being toted as the world's best after New York.
A trip to Montreal is not complete without a Montreal Smoked Meat Sandwich. We checked out Reuben's on Ste Catherine, which boasted the best smoked meat sandwiches in the city. So what is Montreal smoked meat? (known simply, as smoked meat when you're in the city.)
Some compare it to pastrami, brisket or corned beef, but anyone will tell you that authenticity can ONLY be found in Montreal. You can even bring home a brisket for Ma and Pop. (I didn't. Should I have? I was thoroughly chastised.)
Reuben's serves up thin, pink slices of smoky, salty goodness, stacked mile-high on a dense, malty slice of rye, lightly kissed by the toaster. A pickle and a hot pepper add a little oomph, and the pungency of the mustard just cuts the saltiness of the meat in a very special way. Reuben's may look unassuming from the street. But head down stairs, and you're instantly taken into a very classy, and very out-of-date deli.
The staff were most welcoming, but it's the food that will have you coming back for seconds. And taking a brisket (or two) home with you. (seriously, can you pick one up for me?)
Ah, M:Brgr. A place that sells $49 pitchers of sangria, $400 bottles of dom and $500 for a bottle of cristal. I had a coke.
We made the mistake of going here for lunch. Come hungry, and stay for dinner. M:Brgr is not some simple burger joint. With ingredients on the menu such as goat cheese, smoked apple-wood bacon, fois gras, truffle aiole and porchini mushrooms, this place takes gourmet burgers to a whole new level. For those on a beer wallet, there's AAA beef, and for those with champagne tastes, try the kobe. We came for le big zak. ($15.95)
This is how a Big Mac should taste: fresh ingredients, lovingly prepared. The burger is prefectly grilled, the whole-wheat bun lightly toasted. Tomatoes and lettuce are crisp and fresh. And the "secret" sauce? Secret, no more! Try le petit big zak ($9.95) and save room for M:Burger's delicious sides. We shared a seemingly unlimited bowl of french-fried onions, which absolutely sang in my mouth.
Alas, no pictures of le petit big zak. It was devoured too quickly. But doesn't this intrigue your appetite?
A trip to Montreal wouldn't be complete without a night of french cuisine. Chez Goutier was a quick walk from our hotel. The patio was intimate and tres classy.
Not only do the French know how to eat, but they know how to dine. Eat late, eat long, good food, good wine, good conversation; the recipe for a perfect evening.
We began with a French Onion Soup. And if you've never had Onion soup before, you don't know what you're missing. (And if you've only tried the Tim Horton's incantation, then you are truly depraved.) The beef and onion broth was light yet hearty. The soup is simplicity: broth, onions, fat pieces of bread sopping in flavour. Top it with cheese, and then bake. It's a soup that'll put hair on your chest and meat on your bones. Perfect after a long winter's day, and delightful on a patio on a cool summer's eve.
For the main course, I thought fish? butter? Parfait! The salmon was moist, light and not overwhelming. The butter-sauce was absolute divinity. It was served with green and yellow beans, which were perfectly prepared and tasted like they were picked yesterday, next-door.
Of course we drank wine. Which I would recommend, not dry, not sweet, just the prefect red.
A cafe au lait and creme brulee rounded out the evening. Chip away the perfectly caramelized crust to discover a creamy, not-too-sweet custard. Heavenly!
Dinner for 2? $116.
We didn't get to taste any Quebecois cuisine, but I urge you to go to Quebec City for the split-pea soup. And maple-syrup specialties. To enhance your Montreal experience drink lots of red wine, perrier and expresses and cappuccinos. Eat lots of croissants and pastries.
May you come home, 10 pounds fatter.
Bon appetit!!
Stay tuned tomorrow for the third installment in my Bievennue a Montreal series. Où sommes-nous? Ce quevous pouvez découvrir si vous êtes perdus à Montréal
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